Home » Highlights » Itineraries in L'Aquila » Epic Poem of a Land
This itinerary is a discovery of places in which L’Aquila’s history mingles with well-known happenings and creates its own sort of “epic poem” with social and religious undertones.
Author: Sandro Cordeschi - Lhasa
Just outside of L’Aquila lie the historical ruins of Amiternum, featuring an amphitheater and theater from Ancient Roman times. From here unwinds a journey filled with memories that set a basis for the history of this city and its surroundings. One renowned figure, Sallust, was a native of Amiternum and author of epic writings for his era. The hill overlooking the theater serves as a reminder, with regard to the name, church, and catacombs, of the story of San Vittorino one of Italy’s first Christian martyrs.
Traveling to L’Aquila by car, you can see how the tower in city hall square rises above a monument to Sallust himself, and perseveres among the wounds and reconstruction, the devastation of time and events, as a symbol of a city that refuses to disappear. The bell has tolled from the very first hour, signaling memorable hours, such as those described by Buccio di Ranallo in his poems. A short walk brings you to the Basilica of San Bernardino da Siena, one of the city’s four patron saints, whose wish was to tie his name to L’Aquila for all eternity. In fact, sensing that his end was near, he said “Eamus ad Aquilam” (let us go to L’Aquila), so that his spirit would stay there forever.
Below the basilica, Via Fortebraccio recalls the story of one of Italy’s most important fifteenth-century battles, when, beneath the walls of L’Aquila, the armies of the pope, queen, and King of Napoli faced the army of the most courageous lord and captain of that time. As legend has it, the brave leader’s story came to an end in a building on that very street, after he was defeated by the determined soldiers of L’Aquila. The story of Fortebraccio’s war is told by the city’s second “Homer,” Niccolò Ciminelli di Bazzano. Via Fortebraccio offers views of coastlines and slopes, arches and alleyways in the ancient city, and leads visitors towards the Basilica di Collemaggio. It was here that the brief apotheosis of another tragically heroic figure took place, the humble hermit Pietro da Morrone, who was crowned Pope Celestine V. His mortal remains rested here until some time ago, symbolizing the dignity that the hermit refused to give up, in his search for genuine Christianity. Next to the basilica and its mystical cloisters, there is a city park, the Parco del Sole, which takes the form of an amphitheater looking out over the natural and historical scenery of the Aterno Valley. That section of the plains, where observers have an eagle-eye view, is the place where Fortebraccio met his destiny, as did the city that first loved him and then assailed him with a mortal hatred. Perhaps one day a new (and ancient) city will rise from that very countryside, green and vivid under the springtime sun – from that land and from the memory of our celebrated men’s epic stories.
km 1.23
42.401 N - 13.306 E
The Abruzzo region and its capital city have a history dating back thousands of years, resulting in countless vestiges from the pre-Roman and Roman periods, such as the ruins from the ancient city of Amiternum. It is located about 9 km outside of L’Aquila, in the district of San Vittorino, along State Highway 80, which leads to Amatrice.
The area was initially inhabited by the Sabine population and was later conquered by the Romans in 290 BC, becoming a highly-developed, prosperous city.Although one can still observe traces from the baths and an aqueduct, the most well-preserved structures are the cavea from the Augustan theater, and the perimeter of the amphitheater nearby, which was built around the middle of the 1st century AD and is still nearly intact today.
These stately, monumental structures were designed to accommodate large crowds of people: the theater, measuring around 80 m in diameter, had a capacity of over 2,000 spectators; while the amphitheater, with 48 well-preserved arches, had a capacity of up to 6,000.
km 9
42.397 N - 13.315 E
The Romanesque Church of Saint Michael can be found close to the village of San Vittorino, along the S.S.80 that runs from L’Aquila to Amatrice. The Church was built above the Catacombs of Saint Vittorino, which house the tomb of this Christian martyr.
The history of this Church complex can be traced back to Roman times; the underground cemetery consists of different areas. The hall holding the tomb of the Saint is characterised by a monument erected, as the marble inscriptions testify, by Bishop Quodvultdeus during the fifth century.Remains have been found in other areas of these inter-connected catacombs, belonging to Christians who had asked to be buried near the Saint.
The basilica lying lengthwise above the catacombs was built around 763, initially dedicated to Saint Vittorino, then to the Archangel Michael, and was finally consecrated once more to Saint Vittorino in 1170.
km 9
42.397 N - 13.315 E
The Romanesque Church of Saint Michael can be found close to the village of San Vittorino, along the S.S.80 that runs from L’Aquila to Amatrice. The Church was built above the Catacombs of Saint Vittorino, which house the tomb of this Christian martyr.
The history of this Church complex can be traced back to Roman times; the underground cemetery consists of different areas. The hall holding the tomb of the Saint is characterised by a monument erected, as the marble inscriptions testify, by Bishop Quodvultdeus during the fifth century.Remains have been found in other areas of these inter-connected catacombs, belonging to Christians who had asked to be buried near the Saint.
The basilica lying lengthwise above the catacombs was built around 763, initially dedicated to Saint Vittorino, then to the Archangel Michael, and was finally consecrated once more to Saint Vittorino in 1170.
km 0.03
42.351 N - 13.399 E
One of the city’s historical, tree-lined squares, the very central Piazza Palazzo, is where Palazzo Margherita and the L’Aquila City Hall are located.The “Palazzo” (palace), built in the 13th century, was adopted as a residence by Margaret d'Austria, the daughter of Charles V. The main element remaining from the original structure is the bell tower, which used to give a signal every evening when it was time to close the gates of the city walls. The tower is still standing, even after the earthquake of 6 April 2009; however, severe damage was caused to the rest of the building. One of the many treasures housed here is the papal bull with which Pope Celestine V announced his pardon – an event still celebrated every year as the Perdonanza Celestiniana.
In the center of Piazza Palazzo there is a towering statue of Sallust, a Latin writer, senator of the Roman Republic, and native of Amiternum, which was a prosperous Ancient Roman city near L’Aquila. The monumental ruins of a theater and amphitheater are all that is left of Amiternum today.
km 0.02
42.351 N - 13.398 E
The Palazzo was constructed towards the end of the XIII century as the seat of the town offices, housing the Captain of the Guard. In a later period, it became the residence of Margherita of Austria, the daughter of Charles V, and has been referred to by her name ever since. Today it houses the offices of the Municipality of L'Aquila, with the bell remaining intact. The bell used to be rung in days gone by to alert the residents that the doors to the city were about to close.
Prior to the earthquake, the Papal Bull of Pope Celestine V was kept in the Palazzo, together with the olive stick used to open the Santa di Collemaggio door, heralding the start of the ceremony granting unconditional forgiveness, on the occasion of the Celestine Pardons.
km 0.3
42.351 N - 13.398 E
The Torre di Palazzo (tower of city hall palace) is one of the city’s proud symbols, and most likely existed even before 1254; however, the structure that we admire today was built in the 1300s.
The tower displays a medieval layout with three and a half tiers divided by frames with decorative moldings; these consist of ornamental designs made from local limestone, most likely between 1254 and 1374. Sculpted stone coats of arms belonging to a Spanish captain, Charles V of Naples, and the city itself (the arms from 1600s replaced the older ones), are positioned on the main façade. In 1901, a large headstone dedicated to Giuseppe Garibaldi was placed under the coat of arms.
The city tower was incorporated into the palace, now city hall, built in 1573 for Margaret of Parma, daughter of Charles V, who was elected governor of Abruzzo by her brother Philip II, King of Spain.In the late 1800s, the old fourteenth-century clock, which was even alluded to by Buccio, was replaced.The bell tolls have always marked the hours of daily life in the city, and in medieval times, they signaled when it was time to close the city gates. The 99 tolls represent the 99 castles that founded the city.
km 0.11
42.351 N - 13.402 E
The Basilica of San Bernardino is one of the city’s most prominent buildings and houses the relics of San Bernardino, who died in L'Aquila in 1444.
Known for its large dome, which was built during the second half of the 15th century, the basilica was constructed upon the will of San Giovanni da Capestrano and symbolizes the power and prestige of the city’s merchant oligarchy. The church and annexed convent were completed in 1472, while the magnificent façade was built during the first half of the 16th century, after various setbacks. It was designed by Cola dell’Amatrice and is made of gilded stone. The church was partially destroyed in the earthquake of 1703, leaving only the fifteenth-century outer walls with large ogival windows, the tower with double-arched windows, and the polygonal chapel of San Bernardino, which can be seen from the monastery cloisters and the chapels off the apse. After the earthquake, the church was reconstructed, and the new structure was already finished by 1730, boasting a lavish interior and a beautiful, gilded organ on the back wall. The interior is very spacious and has Baroque décor, with a Latin-cross floor plan and three naves. The central nave is roofed by an impressive wooden ceiling (by Bernardo Mosca da Pescocostanzo) and an octagonal dome. The lateral chapels have a number of works of art, including a particularly noteworthy altar painting by Andrea della Robbia; the mausoleum of San Bernardino by Silvestro dall’Aquila and company; a crucifix from the 16th century; and the splendid sepulcher of Maria Pereira, made by Silvestro dall’Aquila and his apprentice Salvato da Roma in the late 1400s.
Vistitors should also see the two cloisters at the Franciscan convent (the other two are used by the military precinct) and the impressive refectory, which is now a Bernardinian hall with sixteenth-century frescos by Cardone.
The earthquake of 6 April 2009 caused severe damage to the basilica’s bell tower, as well as the furthermost apse.
km 1.5
42.350 N - 13.401 E
The centrally located street Via Fortebraccio takes its name from the Italian leader Andrea Fortebraccio, also known as Braccio da Montone. He was the main character in a number of battles that took place in this area during the 13 months that L'Aquila was under siege.
The leader died after being wounded in the Battle of Bazzano, in 1424. Noteworthy places along the street include Palazzo Alfieri, from the Renaissance period, which now houses the Istituto Santa Maria degli Angeli; Palazzo Dragonetti; and Palazzo Romanelli.
km 0.15
42.343 N - 13.405 E
Construction on the Basilica of Santa Maria di Collemaggio began in 1287 upon the will of Pietro Angeleri, also called by the name of “Morrone,” who was elected pope in 1294 with the name of Celestine V.
The façade, sectioned off with geometric designs, features a grandiose rose window. It towers over the long street leading up to it, with two other rose windows and three front entranceways.
There is another entranceway on the right side, where the famed Holy Door is located. Every 28 and 29 August it is opened for the Perdonanza Celestiniana, an annual event celebrating the crowning of Celestine V and his issue of the papal bull of the Inter sanctorum solemnia in 1294, with which he granted full indulgence.
The basilica is divided by three naves lined with pillars standing on octagonal bases and supporting ogival arches. Although it was initially Romanesque, it was refurbished during the Baroque era and then restored to its original appearance in the 1970s.
It houses the relics of its founder, Pope Celestine V, as well as several frescos from the 1400s.The basilica is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and some of the areas in the annexed convent are now used by the A. Casella Conservatory and some public offices.
42.343 N - 13.403 E
Adjacent to the Basilica di Santa Maria di Collemaggio, Parco del Sole is a big park specifically meant for relax and tranquillity, thanks also to its panoramic views. A playground is also available.
Considering its natural amphiteatrical shape, many concerts and summer events were organised here.
