Home » Highlights » Itineraries in L'Aquila » Land of saffron
There is an extraordinary area that has been producing the Saffron of L’Aquila for centuries, lying along the ancient route marked by the Via Claudia Nova in Roman times, and later by the Tratturo Magno, or main path for transhumance practiced between the pastures of Gran Sasso and the Tavoliere in Apulia.
Author: Errico Centofanti
There is an extraordinary area that has been producing the Saffron of L’Aquila for centuries, lying along the ancient route marked by the Via Claudia Nova in Roman times, and later by the Tratturo Magno, or main path for transhumance practiced between the pastures of Gran Sasso and the Tavoliere in Apulia.
There is an extraordinary area that has been producing the Saffron of L’Aquila for centuries, lying along the ancient route marked by the Via Claudia Nova in Roman times, and later by the Tratturo Magno, or main path for transhumance practiced between the pastures of Gran Sasso and the Tavoliere in Apulia. The saffron here is one of the world’s most valuable varieties of this extremely costly spice. Thanks to sheep husbandry and saffron cultivation, the towns of this area have experienced different periods of considerable prosperity, which can be seen in the grandeur of the buildings and monuments remaining.
Barisciano (altitude: 940 m, population: 1,830), located on the slopes of Mt. Selva, overlooks the Navelli Valley, and is still the heart of saffron cultivation. Built during the 8th century, it has medieval structures including the massive walls of the ancient fortress that slope down with a series of terraces. Of particular interest are the Churches of San Flaviano and Santa Maria di Valverde, some examples of tower residences, and sixteenth-century buildings such as Palazzo Ximenes. Near Prata d’Ansidonia (altitude: 845 m, population: 600) there is an extremely important archaeological site – the Vestini city of Peltuinum. The Parish Church of San Nicola, rebuilt during the Baroque epoch, houses an impressive ambon from 1240. Outside of town, rising among the woods, is Castel Camponeschi, a fortified village dating back to sometime between the 13th and 14th centuries.
Different sections of Tussio and San Nicandro are very picturesque.
The remnants of a stately medieval fortress, partially destroyed in the 1400s by the army of Braccio Fortebraccio da Montone, look out onto the town of San Pio delle Camere (altitude: 830 m, population: 550). In the Church of San Pietro Celestino, there are four paintings depicting episodes from the life of the saint. The district of Castelnuovo offers a picturesque example of a fortified village with a quadrangular layout inspired by Roman models; this was largely destroyed in the earthquake of 6 April 2009.
Caporciano (altitude: 975 m, population: 300), dating back to 1000 AD, presents massive fortified structures dating back to the protohistoric period, in addition to the beautiful medieval churches of San Pietro and San Benedetto Abate. Among its artistic assets, it presents the treasures in the district of Bominaco: the magnificent Romanesque Church of Santa Maria Assunta and the Church of San Pellegrino, which boasts an interior completely lined in frescos from the 13th century.
At the outer limits of the saffron plateau lies Navelli (altitude: 760 m, population: 710), which has kept its medieval layout intact, organized around the fortress at the top. It boasts several architectural wonders scattered among typical tower residences and steep cordonata streets. In the district of Civitaretenga, one should visit the Church of San Salvatore, from the late 1700s, which has a Renaissance entranceway and an interior with elegant décor. In the valley below, one can find the churches of Santa Maria delle Grazie and Santa Maria in Cerulis, two rural churches built to provide shelter and comfort for shepherds travelling along the L’Aquila-Foggia path. They are typical examples of Abruzzi architecture tied to the pastoral civilization.
km 6.8
42.325 N - 13.592 E
Looking out over the Navelli Valley, Barisciano is located on the slopes of Mt. Selva and is part of the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga Park.
It was founded in the 8th century and built up around the nucleus of San Flaviano della Pagania. Around 1000 AD, four neighbourhoods (Capo di Serra, Macchiola, Piedi la Terra, and Tricaglio) were established after the neighbouring villages came together. Because of its strategic location, it became the target of several leaders trying to claim property. In 1424, it was subjugated by Braccio da Montone and then later by the Caracciolo family.
The centre of town is full of narrow streets going up and down hills and flanked by random stairways; these are separated by wide open squares featuring churches and fountains. The Church of San Flaviano has a Latin-cross layout with three naves. Over the centuries it has undergone various alterations; however, inside one can still find an impressive baptismal font from 1571, a wooden organ from 1759, and a pulpit from the 1700s. The sixteenth-century Church of Santa Maria di Valleverde was completed during the second half of the 18th century, and its exterior features five Renaissance windows with a unique form. The beautiful entranceway leads to a collection of sculptures from the school of Ariscola and Silvestro dall'Aquila. The ceiling is made of wood and adorned with trussing. Scattered throughout the town are also the churches of Santa Maria di Capo di Serra, Fonte Grande, and Santissima Trinità, a structure with several impressive elements, as well as the grottos referred to as “locce.”The traditional ritual of the “sette sporti” during the annual festival “Notte delle Streghe” (night of the witches) is of great interest.
km 2.9
42.279 N - 13.607 E
Along with San Nicandro and Tussio, Prata d'Ansidonia was built after the Franks’ destruction of Peltuinum (nearby archaeological site), sometime between the 8th and 9th centuries. It is located along the road of Subequana, among the hills at the foot of Mt. Sirente.
The entry gates open up to what was once a Roman metropolis. The Via Claudia Nova ran through the city, and there are a number of archaeological discoveries still intact, such as the large sections of wall, the foundation of a temple and a theatre – all providing evidence that this was a stable, independent settlement. The beautiful natural scenery of the area is accentuated by many historical and artistic assets; in fact, visitors can tour places displaying both modern and ancient art. The Church of San Paolo da Peltuinum is considered to be a masterpiece unto itself. It is embellished with an extremely unique ambon from 1240, and has decorations showing some influence from Arabic art and floral motifs on the panels framing the parapet, which depict the common thistle flower. Prata also offers the Gallery of Contemporary Art and is known for its production of saffron.
km 5.4
42.286 N - 13.620 E
Between Prata d'Ansidonia and San Pio delle Camere, Peltuinum was one of the main centres of communication in Roman times.
The important ruins actually lie along the old Tratturo. In Roman times the important Via Claudia Nova passed through it and its origins would appear to date back to the preceding Quirina tribe. The Roman town, destroyed by the Franks between the 8th and the 9th centuries had its own aqueduct. In Norman times, under Sedonio, its name was changed to Civita Sedonia and a period of decline set in.
On what is probably the site of an ancient pagan site, rises the Romanic Church of San Paolo in Peltuinum which has been reconstructed on several occasions. Still visible today are the remains of a theatre from the Augustan Age, a temple to Apollo and stretches of the town walls.
km 4.9
42.285 N - 13.659 E
San Pio delle Camere is a town with about 500 residents, located at an altitude of 830 metres above sea level. It is part of the Comunità montana Campo Imperatore-Piana di Navelli (mountain community of Campo Imperatore- Navelli Valley) and is situated on the Navelli Plateau near the “Tratturo Magno” (main pasture road) and the Church of Santa Maria in Centurelli. It also encompasses the district of Castelnuovo.
The name “San Pio delle Camere” derives from “Declivius Cameratus” (slope with chambers), which refers to the grottos located below the town. The town has confirmed medieval origins, as demonstrated by the remnants of the old fortress with a “castle-wall” structure, as well as the narrow streets of the town. From the 13th century on, it was a feud run by the Gualtieri and Gentile families, and in 1254, it contributed to the founding of the city of L'Aquila. Immediately after, it set the scene for Braccio da Montone’s seige, and was invaded. In 1424, the XVI century Parish Church of San Pio was destroyed in battle, but later restored in the 1500s. Visitors can also see the triple-nave Church of San Pietro Celestino and the Church of Sant'Antonio with a crypt containing tombs.
km 3.6
42.251 N - 13.675 E
Caporciano is a town with about 250 residents, located in the province of L’Aquila at an altitude of 727-1,200 metres above sea level. It is part of the Comunità montana Campo Imperatore-Piana di Navelli (mountain community of Campo Imperatore-Navelli Valley) and is near the Navelli Valley. It has earned itself the title of “art city of the region.”
Caporciano was built as a fortified village during the 12th century, and is located on the Regio Tratturo (main pasture road in the area). The name Caporciano most likely derives from the Ancient Roman settlements, “Caput Iani” (head of Janus), or perhaps “Caput Porci,” based on the quantity of pigs and boars in the area. In 1254, it contributed to the founding of L'Aquila. The town’s medieval section includes noteworthy elements such as the central tower, which was the main structure in the fortified village, various decorative headstones, and the Parish Church of San Benedetto. Just outside of the centre, one can see the small Church of San Pietro in Valle and in the outskirts of town, the Bominaco Castle.
Other places worth visiting include the churches of Santa Maria Assunta and San Pellegrino, which are among Abruzzi’s most impressive complexes in terms of aesthetics. With regard to history and the natural environment, Caporciano offers a wealth of options to explore, such as the Church of Santa Maria de' Centurelli, a splendid example of a single-nave pasture church with Romanesque and Renaissance elements, in addition to the fascinating archaeological site that uncovered a necropolis almost 3,000 years old. This area produces the famed saffron of L’Aquila, with Protected Geographical Status.
km 8.5
42.244 N - 13.658 E
Bominaco is a district in the town of Caporciano with about 50 residents, located in the province of L'Aquila, at an altitude of 1,000 metres above sea level.
It is a medieval village known mainly for its churches of Santa Maria Assunta and San Pellegrino, as well as its castle. Its name was originally “Momenaco” and it belonged to the Benedictines. In 1254, it contributed to the founding of L'Aquila. It was also the site of Braccio da Montone’s seige and in the wake of that event, the feud owner at the time, Cipriano di Iacobuccio da Forfona, had a defensive tower built with a castle-wall structure.
The churches of Santa Maria Assunta and San Pellegrino are two of Abruzzi’s most treasured artistic assets and, along with the castle, they form the ancient monastery of Momenaco. San Pellegrino has a rectangular layout with an entranceway boasting three frontal arches and two lateral ones. The interior is lined with frescos depicting the “Calendario Valvense” (calendar from the Lombard gastaldship of Valva) with symbols used by the Benedictines. The Romanesque Santa Maria Assunta was built into the rock during the 11th -12th centuries. It has a triple-nave layout and a colonnade with unevenly spaced columns. In the area next to Santa Maria Assunta there are some remnants from a convent with a well that is still well-maintained.
42.238 N - 13.728 E
Navelli is a town with around 700 residents, located at an altitude of 760 metres above sea level. It is part of the Comunità montana Campo Imperatore-Piana di Navelli (mountain community of Campo Imperatore-Navelli Valley) and lies in the middle of Abruzzi’s four parks. The town was established through the union of the following villas: Santa Maria in Cerulis, Castellina, San Giovanni, San Salvatore, Santa Lucia, Santa Sabina, San Prospero, Sant'Angelo, and San Sebastiano. In 1254, it contributed to the founding L'Aquila.
The town still preserves elements from its medieval origins, especially within the old village. Navelli, built in the valley by the same name, is known for its cultivation of the Crocus Sativus, or the Saffron Crocus. The name “Navelli” may derive from “Novelli” in honour of the Novellesi peoples who participated in the crusades; the root “nava” also has to do with the word “basin,” or rather, the geographical location in which Navelli lies. The town was also located along the paths used by shepherds practicing transhumance, the seasonal migration of herds from the L’Aquila area to pastures providing better conditions during the winter months.
Visitors can see the sixteenth-century Palazzo Santucci, a stately building with a large courtyard and central well; the Parish Church of St. Sebastian, housing a processional cross from the 1300s; the Church of Madonna del Campo; and Chiesa del Rosario, with its Baroque entranceway. Another place of interest is the Church of Santa Maria in Cerullis, which has a square layout and impressive frescos.
On the first Saturday of May, Navelli puts on the traditional festival of the “Panarda,” which entails a group of seven young ladies going around to each house and offering blessed bread to the people.
