Home » Highlights » Itineraries in L'Aquila » History told by the River
Mountain bike trip along the medium-altitude Aterno Valley – through the nature and history of this area’s civilisation; an exploration of Abruzzi’s fascinating nooks and crannies.
Author: Sandro Cordeschi - Lhasa
After taking the recommended tour of Stiffe’s village, its castle ruins, waterfalls, and well-known grottos, keep travelling east towards Campana, following the scenic dirt path that runs along the river.
This high, upstream village is known for its structures built up on the hillside and for a few aristocratic mansions located there. An ancient stone bridge crossing the river enhances the picturesque setting. After Campana, the path becomes rocky and the Aterno, which flows more rapidly here, creates waterfalls among the steep cliffs.
You can hear the water current from a distance and there are a number of paths that bring you even closer. After going up and down a few hills, you will reach another beautiful bridge near a watermill that has been adequately restored, although not in function. High above you, to the left, you can see the medieval/Renaissance town of Fontecchio, which is worth a tour in and of itself. Those daring enough to tackle the hill (the road is paved) can admire the aristocratic buildings and the square with its fourteenth-century fountain.
Our journey continues along the banks and, after a few understandable detours for those eager to stay near the water, brings us near the twin towns of Santa Maria del Ponte and Tione, the former bathed in sun and the latter eternally in the shade. These are the birthplaces of two of Abruzzi‘s most prominent twentieth-century writers and intellectuals, Giovan Battista (Titta) Rosa and Massimo Lelj. Both villages, also high on the Aterno, are worth a visit for fans of history and rural life. They offer buildings with noteworthy architecture (both religious and non-religious), such as the Collegiate Church of St. Mary and the Tione Tower, which can also be admired from a distance. Along the street bordering the river, one can just barely observe the ruins of an old convent, which was most likely somewhat preserved until about fifty years ago.
Adventurous travellers may reach the small abandoned station in Beffi. From there, a new path will bring you near a small, but interesting Roman bridge, which can be reached by foot via a scenic path, at the end of which the remnants of what was most likely an Ancient Roman road can be seen. There are some visible grooves left by carriage wheels, and the rock walls display small devotional aediculae with sculptures. If you are ambitious and in good shape, you can hike back up the dirt path with your bike to the tower and fortified village of Beffi. This exhausting climb will allow you to observe a medieval town which, although it is now in ruins, will give you a good picture of the town planning and social structure of that period.
If you would rather not take the same route back to your departure point (although the paved roads may be inviting), you can go back to the Beffi Station and try to catch the train on the scenic L’Aquila-Sulmona line, which will bring you to Campana and allow you to see the places along the river again.
km 8.61
42.256 N - 13.546 E
This district in the town of San Demetrio Ne' Vestini, was a castrum (defensive camp) in ancient times and later became a fortified village.
Stiffe most likely contributed to the foundation of L'Aquila, since there is a church dedicated to St. Andrew in the small town, and it also lies within the walls of the region’s main city; L'Aquila was actually established through competition among the various castra in the surrounding area.
Along with the towns of Fontecchio and Rocca di Mezzo, Stiffe played a major role in the defeat of Braccio da Montone in 1424.
Stiffe is well known for its grottos with karst topography, which fed water to one of Italy’s first hydroelectric complexes at the turn of the century. The grottos can be visited and offer a spectacular view with fanciful configurations created naturally by the stalactites and stalagmites.
km 0.6
42.232 N - 13.605 E
Fontecchio (Comunità Montana Sirentina and Regional Park of Sirente Velino) is a town with just over 400 residents, located at an altitude of 695 metres above sea level, not far from L'Aquila.
It has medieval origins, but also shows traces from Ancient Roman civilisation in the high grounds of “il castellone”. Visitors can see the sights of Piazza del Popolo next to the Parish Church of Santa Maria della Pace, Porta Castello, Palazzo Corvi, the Church of St. Francis, the magnificent fourteenth-century fountain, and the Porta dei Santi gateway. Standing over the Porta dei Santi is a tower with one of the oldest clocks in Italy.
Like Tione and Fagnano, Fontecchio also has some “pagliare” still standing. These were transitory abodes that farmers built in the fields they were harvesting, as a result of the distance from town.
km 0.2
42.230 N - 13.606 E
The fourteenth-century fountain is located in the town of Fontecchio and, lying below street level, can be accessed via a stone stairway leading down from Piazza del Popolo.
It has become a true symbol for the town. It is made of white stone and has a polygonal basin adorned with masks.Neither the architect, nor the exact date of construction are known; however, experts believe it dates back to around the 14th century.
km 5.53
42.233 N - 13.606 E
Just outside of the town Fontecchio, one can find the religious complex of St. Francis, consisting of a church and a fourteenth-century convent. The medieval church has an impressive Romanesque entranceway. Over the years, the complex was used as a hospital and shelter for the poor, and then later went back to serving its religious purpose.
During recent restoration projects completed in the 1980s, an important archaeological find was made behind the apse of the church – an Ancient Roman floor made of bricks laid in a fishbone pattern.
km 2.9
42.210 N - 13.645 E
Santa Maria del Ponte is a medieval village located within the town of Tione degli Abruzzi, in the Subequana Valley. This area is part of the Regional Park of Sirente-Velino.
The origins and layout of the village are reminiscent of a “fortified village” located near the church by the same name.
km 3.66
42.203 N - 13.635 E
Tione degli Abruzzi is a town with over 300 residents and is located in the province of L'Aquila at an altitude of 600 metres above sea level. It is part of the Comunità montana Sirentina.
Around the mid-1700s, Tione contributed to the founding of L'Aquila. Subsequently, it became a feud run by the Rivera family, then by the Quinzi and Cocco families. The town is made up of five neighbourhoods and has a layout of Roman origin. Noteworthy places include the Church of San Nicola di Bari; the Baroque Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary and the Sanctuary of the Holy Trinity. The town’s geographical details led to the establishment of temporary dwellings called “pagliare,” which are typical of Tione, Fontecchio, and Fagnano. These are transitory abodes that farmers built in the fields they were harvesting, as a result of the distance from home; over the years, some became actual houses.
42.193 N - 13.680 E
Beffi is a district of Acciano (Comunità Montana Sirentina), a town in the province of L’Aquila with just under 400 residents. It is situated at an altitude of 600 metres above sea level.
Originally, Beffi was a fortified village and today still preserves the ruins of a lofty medieval castle. Noteworthy places include the Church of San Lorenzo, which houses a wooden Madonna with Child from the 16th century, and the fifteenth-century Church of San Michele Arcangelo. Visitors should also stop at the single-nave Church of the Madonna del Rifugio and the Church of the Madonna degli Angeli, boasting two stone altars and frescos.
