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Leghorn

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Livorno - Old Fortress

Livorno - Old Fortress

The province of Livorno runs along the coast of central Tuscany, from Piombino to Livorno and extends for a brief stretch inland, an area alternating between plains and hills.
It also includes some islands of the Tuscan Archipelago, the best known of which is Elba, a very popular tourist destination, with varied attractions and enchanting landscapes. The other islands that are part of the province of Livorno are Capraia, Gorgonia, Pianosa and the wild Montecristo which is a nature reserve. The coast, known as the “Etruscan Coast” for the abundance of traces left by this ancient civilization, seamlessly fuses natural and cultural aspects.
Among pinewoods, long beaches, and cliffs, stand well known tourist spots such as Castiglioncello, Rosignano Marittimo, Marina di Cecina, Marina di Bibbona and the captivating Gulf of Baratti and Populonia, all rich in history and precious archaeological artefacts. Val di Cornia has a particular conservational value covering as it does a vast network of protected areas, including the Parco Costiero della Sterpaia (Coastal park) which encompasses the typical coastal scenery of Maremma; the Parco Costiero di Rimigliano, rich in Mediterranean vegetation and, further inland, the Parco Forestale di Poggio Neri and the Parco Naturale di Montoni with magnificent oak forests.
The entire territory, from the coast to the inland areas, shows signs of the age-old presence of man and his work, from the Etruscan necropolises in the Gulf of Baratti, to the evidence of ancient mineral extraction in the Colline Metallifere, to typical medieval villages such as Campiglia Marittima, Suvereto and Sassetta whose artistic treasures add to the uniqueness of this land rich in colours, fragrances and flavours.
References to the area abound, from the memoirs of the great poet Giosuè Carducci in the hamlet of Bolgheri, to those of Napoleon who spent a brief period in exile on Elba, and of the painter Giovanni Fattori, originally from Livorno.

What to see

The first stop of any tour of the area would have to be Livorno, one of the most important ports in Italy and home to the Naval Academy.
The city still preserves the charm and structure conferred upon it by the Medici in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries: the pentagonal defensive wall surrounded by navigable moats, the distinctively red coloured fortifications such as the Old Fortress, work of Antonio da Sangallo; the Cathedral and the Via Grande portico. The Venezia Nuova district is also charming, built in the seventeenth century after the style of the lagoon city; it includes a dense network of canals with bridges and tall buildings and is home to many fashionable bars and typical restaurants.
The church of Santa Caterina is of particular artistic importance, while the Sanctuary dedicated to Santa Maria delle Grazie, located in the village of Montenero, a few miles from the city is of great religious significance. In terms of outstanding architecture the Cisternone and the Cisternino stand out, these two large reservoirs in the Neoclassical style by the architect Poccianti are nowadays used as venues for cultural events.
Do not miss the Museo Civico Giovanni Fattori (civic museum), located in the beautiful Villa Mimbelli, which houses a magnificent collection of Tuscan paintings realised between the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, and another of works by Fattori.
An ideal destination for a seaside holiday is the Gulf of Baratti, with its picturesque port, crystal clear waters, sandy beach in the shade of a cool pinewood and the Parco Archeologico (archaeological park) with Etruscan necropolises and evidence of ironwork from nearby Elba. The Gulf is dominated by the picturesque village of Populonia, perched on the summit of the headland, enclosed by defensive walls and defended by a mighty fortress. In the heart of the Colline Metallifere the Parco archeominerario di San Silvestro preserves evidence of mining activity in the area reaching back into antiquity, including the ruins of a medieval mining village, making it well worth taking the time to visit.
Other places of particular cultural value include Castiglioncello with a necropolis from the late Roman Republic era and Cecina with its interesting Etruscan-Roman museum. The Castagneto Carducci territory is of particular interest, it is made up of several villages including Bolgheri where the poet Giosuè Carducci lived for a period. It is still possible to admire the Oratory of San Guido and tread the path, with the two rows of cypresses, celebrated by the poet in his verses.
A village of great charm and ancient origin is Suvereto, located in a panoramic position in the hills, it has a remarkable artistic heritage, from the Romanesque church of San Giusto and the thirteenth century Town Hall to the Fortress.
A tourist destination par excellence is the Island of Elba, known for its crystal clear waters and high, rugged coastline which opens up into bays and shingle, sand, or rocky beaches. The Island is rich in minerals and has been inhabited since ancient times, as is shown by the typical villages of Rio Marino and Capoliveri. The places most visited by tourists are the picturesque Porto Azzurro with its grand Fortress, and Portoferraio which preserves many reminders of Napoleon including the places where he lived – the Palazzine dei Mulini with original furnishings and objects; and Villa San Martino, his country residence.

What to do

The coast and islands offer plenty of opportunities for spending pleasant days by the sea on sandy or rocky beaches, and even the possibility to indulge a passion for water sports and sailing. Diving enthusiasts can dive down to the enthralling sea beds to admire the flora and many different species of fish.
The thick woods and various protected areas give visitors the chance to go on excursions in close contact with nature, from simple walks to more arduous hikes, and there are also a number of trails prepared for hiking and mountain biking.
In the hills and amongst the characteristic villages scattered over the countryside, there are wine and food itineraries which help you to discover local produce and wine.
For a relaxing, therapeutic stay, the baths and spa treatments at the famous Terme di Caldana or Terme di San Giovanni on the island of Elba are highly recommended.
The area has a full calendar of events, the most exciting is the Accademia navale e Città di Livorno trophy, a sailing competition of international fame (end of April); other events in Livorno include rowing races between the city’s neighbourhoods which take place in June and July. Also in Livorno, the Palio Marinaro is held on the second Sunday of July. Amongst the cultural events Effetto Venezia particulalry stands out, and takes place in the first days of August in the Venezia Nuova district of Livorno.
Among the folk festivals, the historical procession of Maggio Campigliese which takes place during the second weekend of May is of particular importance. Finally, on the first Sunday of December in Suvereto, the feast of the Boar takes place, along with the Palio delle Botti (a barrel rolling tournament) and the Giostra degli Arcieri (archery tournament).

What to taste

Fish has pride of place in Livornese gastronomic tradition. Particularly good local specialities include “cacciucco” (fish soup and toasted bread), along with mullet “alla livornese” in tomato sauce with garlic and parsley, salted codfish and stockfish with onion, tomato and potatoes.
The presence of a variety of different cultural influences in Livorno has given rise to unique and special dishes, the “torta di ceci”, a chickpea pie often accompanied by “schiacciata”, a kind of flat bread, or by salted bread; “roschette” made of salted bread dough in the form of little doughnuts, and the Easter “schiacciata” a kind sweet breadlike cake.
Notable and prized local wines include Aleatico di Portoferraio, Bianco d’Elba, Moscato d’Elba, Passito d’Elba, and Rosso di Colle Salvetti.

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