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Nuoro

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Nuoro - Piazza Satta

Nuoro - Piazza Satta

The Province of Nuoro is situated in the central-eastern part of Sardinia. Overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea on the East, it is bounded by the Provinces of Sassari and Olbia-Tempio on the north, by the Province of Oristano on the west and the Province of Cagliari and Ogliastra on the south. It spreads out for 3934 square kilometres (16.3% of Sardinian territory) and is the second Province in the island, for dimensions, after Sassari.
The Province comprises 52 communes, including Nuoro and Siniscola, but only the 1% of the territory is occupied by urban areas: the rich and diverse natural heritage that goes from coast to mountains dominates the province.
In the Province of Nuoro there is the most important massif of the island, the Gennargentu, whose highest top, Punta La Marmora, reaches 1.834 metres. Other important reliefs are the calcareous rise of Monte Albo and the Monte Ortobene.
At the foot of the mountains there is an outline of coastal system of exceptional beauty, which includes the coastal areas of Dorgali, Orosei and Siniscola.
Behind the coastline, most part of the territory is delineated as a hill type area with forests of oak woods and cork woods, dominated by the maquis. Included in this landscape there are countless archaeological sites.
The main rivers are the Cedrino, the Posada and the Tirso, while near the town of Gavoi you find the artificial lake of Gusana, which contains 60 million cubic metres of water.
The Province of Nuoro has been concerned for long by the phenomenon of karst, a chemical process by which the rains that have become slightly acid operate the dissolution of calcareous rocks. The intense karst activity which affected the rocks over millennia resulted in caves of extraordinary beauty, among which we mention those of Sa Oche and Su Bentu, in the valley of Lanaittu, the chasm of Ispinigoli, in the territory of Dorgali, and the cave of the Bue Marino in Calagonone, the most famous of Sardinia, populated until a few decades ago by the last surviving monk seal specimens, which today is presumed extinct.

What to see

While walking in the lovely old town of Nuoro, rich in art and history, we can admire many monuments. Among these, the Duomo (Cathedral), built in the middle of the 19th century, which preserves paintings by local artists; the Church of San Simplicio, built between the 11th and the 12th centuries in roman style; the Sanctuary and the Chiesa delle Grazie; the MAN, Museo dell’Arte di Nuoro, distributed over four floors, two of which house temporary exhibitions and the other two house works by Sardinian artists from the early twentieth century until today; the National Archaeological Museum, where you can admire numerous exhibits on the history of Nuoro and its area from the Neolithic to Medieval times.
It is worth noting the Museo Deleddiano, situated in the house where there was born the famous Sardinian writer Grazia Deledda (1871-1936), who won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1926. The museum collects material relating to the life and work of the writer, whose name was even given to the literary park Grazia Deledda, which offers a series of thematic journeys, referring to her life and novels.
In the south-east part of Nuoro the territory of Barbagia opens, which includes the mount Gennargentu: an area full of charm, but inaccessible and sparsely inhabited. Among the small villages of Barbagia we mention Oliena, whose old town with white-walled houses and the ruins of a medieval castle, is one of the most characteristic of the island. Morover, Orgosolo, which became famous for the numerous murales of social political content painted on the walls of the old town in the Seventies. It is also worth seeing the Cathedral of Ottana dating from the 12th century and made of black and purple trachyte, the late Baroque basilica of Madonna dei Martiri in Fonni and the old town of Desulo, where there is the Ethnographic Museum "Casa Montanaru", which exhibits costumes and objects of ancient pastoral activity. In this area there are many archaeological finds like the four monumental menhir of Perdas Fittas and the necropolis of Sa Concas, with fifteen graves.
To the west of Nuoro there is the territory of the Baronie, characterized by fertile plains and beautiful hills. The main towns are Orosei and Siniscola. In Orosei it is worth visiting, besides the old town, the Museum Giovanni Guiso, the Parish Church of San Giacomo Maggiore built in Arabic style and the Church of San Antonio Abate (St. Anthony the Great), dated back to the 14th century, which houses a wooden statue of the saint who is celebrated every year with a big bonfire on 17th January. Among the monuments of Siniscola there are the eighteenth century parish church of San Giovanni Battista.
Numerous archaeological finds are present even in the north-eastern province, such as the Nuraghe village of Serra Orrios, among the largest and best preserved of Sardinia, the tomb of the giants of S'Ena e Thomes, the holy well Su Tempiesu, beautiful example of Nuraghe temple architecture and the archaeological site of Noddule, consisting of a large Nuraghe, and a nuragical village. 

What to do

Since nature is the master in the province of Nuoro, with beautiful landscapes ranging from mountains, the hill to the sea, thus, it is the ideal place for a number of excursions (trekking) to discover the many beauties.
The lush flora and the rich fauna and birds (mouflon, Sardinian foxes, weasels, wild boars, but also hawks, peregrine falcons, griffon vultures, eagles) make this area a paradise for lovers of photography and birdwatching. Not only that: in the massive Gennargentu, there are many places where you can go skiing in winter, e.g. in Fonni.
For fans of speleology, as we said, there are numerous caves of enchanting beauty. But the province of Nuoro is also ideal for beach lovers, with its beautiful beaches and inlets, like those of Cape Comino, Cala Liberotto and Santa Lucia.
There are also many celebrations and folkloristic ceremonies in the province. Particular attention should be given to a feast of fireworks in honour of Saint Anthony the Great, scheduled on January 16 and 17 and the Carnival of Mamoiada, characterized by the presence of mamuthones, figures with mysterious origins who parade through the streets of the village dressed in leather, their face covered with tragic wooden masks and heavy bunches of bells on the shoulders.

What to taste

In the gastronomy of the province of Nuoro, the carasau bread (they call it "music paper" because of its very thin crispy pastry); as well as being eaten fresh, is used in the form of pane frattau that is steeped in water or broth and seasoned with tomato sauce, pecorino cheese and poached eggs, or as pane guttiau where the bread is made warm and then seasoned with drops of oil and a bit of salt.
The appetizers are made from wild boar or mountain ham, various sausages and salamis.
Among the pasta dishes we mention culurgiones, large ravioli stuffed with cheese, potatoes and mint, maharrones de busa and maharrones hurriaos, which are dressed with sauce and fresh pecorino.
As for cheese, there are countless varieties of pecorino.
Among the second courses, we recommend porcetto (pork), boiled sheep and roast lamb as well as entrails, such as trattalia, or blood.
The typical seadas is a large circular-shaped sweet ravioli stuffed with cheese, fried and flavoured with honey or sugar. Then there is the aranzada, a dessert made of thin strands of orange cooked in honey and covered with almond sticks.
A very particular rare taste is sa pompia, hybrid of orange and grapefruit, which grows only in the eastern coastal area of Nuoro, boiled and caramelled in arbutus honey. Characteristic of the area is also the turròn.
Among the wines, we recommend the Mandrolisai, the Monica and the Malvasia. The typical liquor is the Mirto made from myrtle berries.

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