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Fermo - Cathedral, XIII century portal
From the Adriatic coast to the Sibillini mountains, where echoes of the cries of the fabled sibyls, hermits and travellers can reputedly be heard, the territory of the province of Ferma is laid out, dotted with as many as forty municipalities: the castles of the ancient Fermo Marca. At the heart of an evocative ridge of hills, crowned by villages that remain the authentic bearers of centuries of history, art and traditions. Along the main valleys, Valtenna, Valdete and Valdaso, a varied, ordered agriculture is conducted, alongside the fervour of modern industrial production, both expressing the character of the people, hard-working, creative and tenacious. The tourist who leaves the beaches and climbs up towards the mountains, passing through Ferma, an aristocratic and secretive city, enjoys a varied walk through a harmonious blend of hills, flatlands and rugged cliffs. The villages here and there provide traces of the Piceni people and the Romans; hamlets and abbey invoke the fascination of the Middle Ages; a visitor can lose track of time studying the many faces of the Madonnas of Crivelli and the surreal places of Licini; rediscover trades once thought to have disappeared; encounter the products of high quality industry. At the end, the visitor can sit down at the table of a trattoria where every dish speaks of a distant, culinary heritage. But the heart of the territory is Fermo, and ancient Roman colony, then studded with castles and a centre of learning, today the provincial capital of significant production districts. The Roman baths, the Duomo, the Renaissance square, the Aquila theatre relate a long and noble history.
The territory of Fermo is one vast museum. Everywhere, there are the archeological relics of the Piceni people and the Romans, splendid abbeys, solitary churches, medieval towers and the palaces of the nobility. The farming methods display the models of the Roman villa and the Benedictine abbey: castles and villages tell of the epoch of the communes. The Piceni made Grottazzolina and Belmonte centres for processing amber, leaving there the splendid handle of the “Lord of the horses.” The Roman remains are even more evident: the cisterns at Fermo, an intact theatre and the remains of villas, at Monte Rinaldo, a Hellenistic temple. Traces of the Lombards abound in the country churches of Belmonte and Falerone. Before the epoch of the communes, the Farfensi monks (9th century) transformed the community, building castles and abbeys: not to be missed is Santa Maria mater Domini di Ponzano. The coastline is an array of long, golden beaches interlaced with shady pine trees. The modern beach of Porto Sant’Elpidio, the Lido of Fermo, the liberty promenade of Porto San Giorgio, the gravel strips of Marina Palmense and Marina di Altidona, the coves of Pedaso, offer tourists a perfect combination of natural landscapes and high quality services, from the tourist port to the long cycle routes, from the lively chalets to the picturesque trattorias. Behind the beach are lively, modern towns with a patchwork of little streets and historic treasures: the tiny fishermen’s houses at Porto Sant’Elpidio, the intact fishing village at Porto San Giorgio with the Roccap Tiepolo, built in the 13th century in defence of the ancient port that once traded with Venice, the lighthouse of Pedaso. High on the headland, far from the bustle, is the village of Torre di Palme. Originally fortified, then built up around the churches and convents, today it is a splendid vantage point to view the sea surrounded by luxuriant Mediterranean scrub. It is said that a grotto on the summit of Mount Sibilla was the home of a benevolent fairy or a diabolical clairvoyant; the story is told that in the Middle Ages, the errant knight, Guerrin Meschino, in search of his own identity, descended in the realm of the Sybil and saw terrible things there. Other legends of necromancers and hermits have wrapped Sibillini in mystery, whose very place names evoke the sacred and the profane: Infernaccio, Pizzo del Diavolo, Mount Priora. But from afar, the shades of the Vettore, the Sybil and the Priora appear airy and light, and the valleys and slops, scattered with hermitages and shrines (S. Giorgio all’Isola, S.Leonardo, the Madonna dell’Ambro) where orchids flower, are inviting places for visit. The park of the Sibillini, a 45 kilometre route, passes through the centres of Amandola and Montefortino; but its entry grates are the villages of Smerillo and Montefalcone, incomparable vantage points from which to enjoy the superb views of the range of mountains.
Following the course of the Aso, from hill to hill, from the sunny villages of Altidona and Lapedona to the Farfensi Montelparo to the woods of Vettore, the journey passes through an incredible variety of landscapes and colours, fields and glimpses of settlements, through modern constructions and traces of the past. The fertile valley displays the perfect outlines of vegetable gardens and orchards; the hills, dotted with houses, are covered in olive trees and vines: the villages, perched on crags and guarded by heavy medieval walls, cluster around abbeys and bell tows. Moresco and Monterubbiano are number among the most beautiful hamlets in Italy, Campofilone solemnly faces onto the valley with its abbey complex and gates, Monte Vidon Combatte has views that stretch to Gran Sasso, Petritoli, Ortezzano, Monte Rinaldo, S. Vittoria in Matenano, Montefalcone, follow the ancient design of the roads of the Farfensi monks, whose memory lives on in the remains of castles and monasteries and the agrarian methods of the territory. The Tenna valley is the natural junction between sea and mountains; it’s for this reason that the Romans chose Falerio, the ancient Falerone, to found a flourishing colony. Faleriense is the beautiful road that runs through all from Porto Sant’Elpidio to Amandola, and once a picturesque little train ran through this land, and all the little stations remain. The Tenna, emerging from the fearful Infernaccio to lap Amandola, desends into the fine lake of S. Ruffino, habitat of Cinerini herons and on whose band the splendid Romanesque abbery of S. Ruffino e Vitale was built. It then runs through the plan between sunflower fields and villages that rising from the ancient settlements have introduced new activities: Surveilling, a perfect 18th century town built to a quadrangular plan, Falerone with its Roman theatre, Montegiorio opposite Belmonte, Magliono with its imposing towers atop the city walls, Grottazzolina, Rapagnano and Monte Urano, alive with craftsmanship and industry. Beyond the Tenna and at Aso, the territory of Fermo is traversed by two little rivers bearing very similar names. To the south, the Ete Vivo runs down through the territory of Monteleone, renowned for the natural phenomenon of sulphur flares, passes by Monsampietro Morico, Montottone, Monte Gilberto and Ponzano wrapped in a silence broken only by the sounds of ancient trades being plied. To the north is the Ete Morto. Travelling through Monte Vidon Corrado, the villages of Licini, Massa Fermana, Montappone and Francavilla d’Ete, the tourist cannot but be enchanted by the golden mounds of grain, the unending horizons, the mysterious full moons that inspired the canvasses of great painters, while at the same time discovering the ancient artisan skills such as the making of straw hats. But continuing in turn to Monte S. Pietrangeli, Torre San Patrizio, Montegranaro and Sant’Elpidio a Mare, the tourist encounters modernity and is surrounding by the dynamic industrial landscape of the Made in Italy brand of footwear production.
Fermo’s cuisine is based on the harmony of the typical ingredients of the area, and is deeply rooted in the local culture. Gastronomy is a way of passing local tradition from generation to generation. The relationship between cuisine and territory has made Fermo’s ‘Festival dei Prodotti Tipici delle Marche’ an ideal showcase for the traditional produce of the region. There are 47 typical local products including extra-virgin olive oil, wines, cured meats, cheeses, pulses, cereals, fruit, vegetables, fish, pasta, honey, jams and liquors. The event is a golden opportunity to taste the delicacies of the region, such as olives ‘all’ascolana’, fossa cheese, ciauscolo, Campofilone maccheroncini, fig lonza, mulled wine, truffles and the Fabriano salami.
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