The Province of Ancona is a territory with a wealth of varied natural, environmental, cultural, artistic and culinary resources that blend together in a unique tapestry. These are expressed through the values of the traditions, culture and typical, high-quality of the produce. The taste, fragrance and authenticity of the latter invoke much interest on the part of the curious tourist, the discriminating consumer and the well educated. Many products are worthy of note in the culinary culture, produce that benefits from the mild climate Ancona enjoys, as well as the ancient knowledge of the farmers. Fishing is one of the activities that flourish along the coast, taking full advantage of the generosity of the Adriatic. Ancona is a leading port for the fishing fleet: sole in abundance, sea bass, sea bream, turbot and monkfish for the grilling and baking: paranza fish for frying and soups; blue fish for the grill; clams and mussels, shell fish and molluscs of every kind.
Over the centuries, the hills have been the ideal location for specific vines which have created prestigious vines like Verdiccio, Rosso Conero and the Lacima di Morro d’Alba. The production of high quality extra virgin olive oil is the outcome of various factors: the varietal base, the soil and climate, the ancient agronomic techniques and, not least, the traditional skill that is a mix of avant garde production and little enterprises that still carry on their traditional crushing techniques. Bee-keeping has long been widespread, passed from father to son with skill and enthusiasm. Honey is sweet, faintly aromatic and clear, much sought after to blend with lesser varieties. Sausage production is very important, notably the Salami of Fabriano, a larded salami, for which the process of awarding the DOP label is underway. In making up a menu, a line is drawn between the cuisines of sea and land but that doesn’t exclude some cross-over dishes like chicken and fish with olives, tuna and anchovies. The marine cuisine is crowned by the broths: according to ancient custom, the point of departures are 13 varieties of molluscs, shellfish, reef and open sea fish; the characteristic ingredient is vinegar flavouring tomato sauce. Still on the marine front, stoccafisso (stockfish) all’anconitana, with potatoes, tomatoes and aromatic herbs plus olives and anchovies, which has its own academy. In addition, there’s the proverbial abundance of the Adriatic for the pan, the over and the grill.
The cuisine of the land features the regional speciality, the vincisgrassi, a lasagne dish stuffed with white sauce, and a beef sausage ragu with ham and porcini mushrooms, followed by other pasta dishes with meat sauce embellished with the aroma of white or black truffles of the highest quality. White meat is popular for first courses: chicken and rabbit, roasted or in stews. That doesn’t detract from the central role of the beef chop, the very aromatic roast pork, grilled lamb, game birds or the speciality snails in Arcevia and Fabriano. In a land of cereal crops, over cooking plays a major role: bread and foccacia, including the crescia, flavoured with oil, sale, rosemary and onion. For dessert, aniseed doughnuts is typical of a myriad of short pastry desserts and the aromas of the regional confectionery, with the fig loin, a type of pastry salami from long ago made with dried figs, fruit peel and bostrengo, a traditional cake with cereals and dried fruit.
Finally, there are traditional aniseed or coffee based liqueurs in the territory between Ancona and Fabriano.