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Genoa

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Genoa - Palazzo Reale

Genoa - Palazzo Reale

Superb for the story it tells.
Superb for the ancient architecture that ennobles the streets.
Superb for the modern architecture that witnesses the will to explore.
Superb for the gardens and parks that colour it.
Superb for the artwork it offers.
Superb for the nature it fosters.
Such is Genoa, a portal (‘Ianua’) between land and sea, a meeting point. A crossroads of cultures and people since the ancient times, Genoa has always been a land that breathes and lives on the sea air. Its history tells its story  with generosity, displaying its richness and beauty in every corner of the old town. The narrow and characteristic ‘carruggi’ snake around the tall buildings along the medieval map, apparently inhomogeneous yet well defined by the main streets that meander toward the sea and inland.
Beautiful buildings, gorgeous churches, façades decorated by stuccoes and frescos, invaluable art collections, all bring the ‘century of the Genovesi’ to mind, the highest moment in the cultural development of the city.
A walk through the streets, squares and alleys of Genoa is a constant surprise. Behind every corner there is a treasure waiting to be discovered. The hinterland tells its story through this prodigious work of Man. It is a sequence of different landscapes that rapidly transition from sheer cliffs to smooth hills, only to rise toward the sky in the Apennine and Alpine ranges. A wild nature that only the determination and  love of its people has managed to tame, finding the right balance between environmental conservation and the needs of the population. Wide terraces covered with olive groves and vineyards break up the thick inland vegetation, with vast expanses of chestnut bordering green valleys and fields.
An especially mild climate, an almost inaccessible territory and the passion of the people of Genoa: these are the three key elements, ingredients for the excellent local products that carry the signature of this land such as the extra virgin olive oil. Steep and rocky, interspersed with graceful coves and bays, covered with pines, Holm oak, palm trees and agave, painted with a rainbow of flowers, caressed by a sea that absorbs its magic, dotted with picturesque villages to brighten up a landscape so gorgeous it seems unreal. A land of contrasts, though so harmoniously linked to one another. The coast of Genoa is a marvel that few places in the world can compete with. Arriving from La Spezia, one meets the Gulf of Tigullio,enclosed between Moneglia to the east and the Portofino promontory to the west: a gems inserted at each extremity of one of the most beautiful places that nature and man could create. Tigullio is a succession of extraordinary environmental beauties, little bays and enchanted beaches, like Sestri Levante's famous Bay of Silenced and breathtaking sea-beds.
Past the Portofino promontory, one enters Paradise Gulf which extends as far as the Great Genoa. The Riviera di Ponente is now also considered a marine holiday resort with places like Arenzano and Cogoleto offering quality tourist reception and services.

What to see

The great Petrarca once appropriately defined it as ‘the Lady of the Sea’. Considering that its history comes from the sea, let’s start learning about Genoa from its main entrance: the harbour. Easily seen from the distance and from any direction, with its height of 76 meters stands the Lighthouse Tower, also known as the Lanterna. Originally built for military purposes, it is now the symbol of the city. 720 steps lead to the top of the tower, but the view is worth the effort. For those who do not feel like taking the challenge, there is a small elevator that will take them to the top.
Genoa is one of the most important international ports. For this reason, the whole area has recently been renovated by the great architect Renzo Piano, who had already designed the Bolla (bubble) near the famous Acquarium.
Once crossed the ‘portal’ of the city, the visitor enters the heart of the Superba, which holds many of its masterpieces inside elegant buildings.
Located in the Strade Nuove district protected by a UNESCO listing since 2006, The ‘Rolli’ buildings are famous for the elegance of their architecture and the valuable materials employed. Among them, are Palazzo Rosso, Palazzo Bianco and Palazzo Doria Tursi, together forming a very museum complex. In fact, Caravaggio, Veronese, Guercino, Van Dyck and Canova are only some of the artists whose work is exhibited here, where the elegance and architectural value of the buildings meet the beauty of the masterpieces in a unique itinerary.
Nearby there is the Palazzo Reale, whose magnificence strikes visitors immediately upon entering through the portal. Frescos, sculptures, paintings and stuccoes decorate the sophisticated halls, which are outfitted with elegant furniture. The building houses the National Gallery, which displays a highly regarded collection of paintings by Luca Giordano, Veronese, Tintoretto, Piola, Vassallo, Jan Roos, Borgognone, Grechetto, Strozzi, Carlo Bonomi, Guercino and Van Dyck through a tour of the 23 rooms.
The S. Lorenzo Cathedral, located in the homonymous square, was originally built in the 9th century and significantly modified through time. The façade, decorated with black and white horizontal lines, presents double-lancet and multiple-lancet windows on the upper section and three portals with a large rose window above the central one. The interior, divided into three naves, exhibits precious paintings, sculptures and is home of the Museo del Tesoro, interesting both because of its setting and for its show of artistic and cultural heritage. The same black-and-white motif can be found on the façade of S.Agostino, a de-consecrated church now home of the homonymous Museum with a rich collection that tells the story of the relationship of Genoa with art from the 10th to the 18th centuries. An interesting multicoloured majolica also adorns the bell tower.
Once left the historical district eastbound, the visitor arrives at Nervi, a wealthy residential suburb favoured by the aristocracy since the 19th century. A gem of art and history set on a delightful stretch of coast, along which unfolds a gorgeous seafront with views to the Gulf of Tigullio. Gardens and blossoming fields harmoniously intertwine with the elegant villas that serve as museums: the Galleria d’Arte Moderna in Villa Saluzzo Serra, the Raccolte Frugone in Villa Grimaldi Fassio, and the Museo Luxoro in the homonymous villa.
Westward, more precisely in Pegli, one can visit the Naval Museum housed in Villa Doria, an aristocratic residence surrounded by a vast park. The exposition shows the maritime history of the town, from its foundation until the early Middle Ages.
Villa Durazzo Pallavicini has two great attractions: the Botanical Garden, set in the park of the villa and filled with rarities, and the Museo Civico di Archeologia Ligure; in addition to finds from the Greco-Roman time, the museum displays a collection from the whole region dating back to pre-history. Stunning is the romantic park surrounding the villa, known for the water effects created by ponds, caves, streams and falls, wittingly placed among the lush vegetation.
The architecture of the Eastern Riviera is famous for the characteristic buildings almost clinging onto the rock, and by the pastel walls.
The same style can be found along the Tigullio coast, with Portofino, Rapallo, Santa Margherita Ligure and Sestri Levante placed along the coast and surrounded by the green of the maquis and the sea reflecting this aura of beauty. Wonderful from the land, they are magnificent from the sea. Trails, bays, coves, cliffs, the sea and its depths; here nature has drawn one of its masterpieces.
In Golfo del Paradiso is Camogli, another gem of the Riviera with the old town characterized by steep streets that meander through houses stacked on top of one another. However, the true heart of the town is the characteristic port, enlivened by the glee of the festive atmosphere and where the crystal-clear water reflects the colour of the boats.
The hinterland of Genoa also offers interesting itineraries, as there are many nature reserves: the Beigua Park, the largest protected area of the region, the Aveto Park, one of the most beautiful areas of the Ligurian Apennines, Antola Park, a mosaic of wonderful natural environments overlooking the Ligurian Sea near Portofino, a town whose beauty is renown worldwide.

What to do

When in Genoa, one cannot miss a visit to the Aquarium, the largest in Europe, fun and educational destination for the whole family.
The careful and accurate recreation of the habitats and boats of the Galata Museo del Mare, with its three travel-related floors, is simply stunning. Soon the museum will give visitors the possibility of boarding a real submarine, the S518 Nazario Sauro.
After the Aquarium and the Museum, it is highly recommended to book a trip in the Marine Sanctuary for Cetaceans, following the routes of the marine mammals that live and thrive in this protected area.
Along the coast there are beautiful coves nestled among cliffs or neighbouring picturesque houses, a perfect opportunity to relax in the sun with gentle sea breeze mitigating the heat. Among the most popular, Baia del Silenzio and Baia delle Favole, small gems facing the ‘two seas’ of Sestri Levante, with the old village sitting on the Punta Manara promontory.
Crystal-clear waters reflecting the green of the maquis and the colours of the lush gardens, lap the Baia di Paraggi and Baia di San Fruttuoso near Portofino. But the beauty of of the Tigullio is also hidden found underwater.
The sea-beds surrounding the Portofino promontory are extremely suggestive. Of variable depth, rocky reefs alternate with sandy bottoms. Sea fans, sponges, madrepore and red coral are among the many species that live in this underwater world, where many scuba divers pay a visit to the famous Cristo degli Abissi, the Christ of the Depths, dedicated to those who lost their life at sea.
On dry land there are many trails for horse-riding, mountain biking or hiking to experience the remotest corners of the area. It is a chance to leave behind the noise and the daily routine and enter an often-forgotten world of consciousness.
Cinema, theatre, dance, music and poetry liven up the schedule of events. The Genovafilmfestival, the most important festival of the area, the Festival Internazionale della Poesia with national and international artists, and the Goa Boa Festival with up-and-coming and established singers, are among the main events held in Genoa. The artistic soul of Genoa expresses itself through Artegenova, a fair dedicated to modern and contemporary art, but also photography and video art.
A classic historical re-enactment is the Regata delle Antiche Repubbliche Marinare, which is held annually on rotation in the waters of Amalfi, Pisa, Venice and Genoa since 1955.
The rest of the province is also rich in cultural rendezvous. In May, Sestri Levante becomes the “fable” capital with shows, meetings and conferences revolving around the “Hans Christian Andersen- Baia delle Favole” prize. It is the most important Italian award for children's stories.
In spring, in the suggestive Tigullio, Cartoons on the Bay is held, one of the most prestigious international events for animation, one of the youngest and enticing forms of entertainment. In Lavagna, instead they hold a historical re-enactment of the marriage between Bianca de’ Bianchi and Opizzo Fieschi. These celebrations culminate after a week on the 14th with the “Torta dei Fieschi”: a gigantic wedding cake made for the occasion by local patisseries and  distribuited to all participants.

What to taste

Basil, cheese, garlic, olive oil, pine nuts and salt, carefully ground and mixed with a wooden pestle in a marble mortar. This is pesto, a simple recipe for a unique taste, and the symbol of the Ligurian cuisine. Excellent only if prepared with Genoa basil from Prà, recently earning the DOP label. It is perfect with the handmade ‘trofie’ or the ‘trenette’, especially those from Recco, whose texture is ideal to soak up the flavour. Recco is also renown for its cheese focaccias.
The attention for the details and the gastronomic creativity of the people of Genoa is also exemplified by the ‘pansotti’, a kind of ravioli filled with chard in a walnut sauce; then there's the ‘minestrone alla genovese’ made with pesto; the ‘cima’, a richly stuffed veal; the stockfish ‘accomodato’, served with Taggiasche; the ‘cappon magro’, a salad made with vegetables, shell-fish and fish that has evolved from a frugal meal to a delicacy; the ‘ciuppin’, an invention claimed by Riva Trigoso, an old fish-based soup recipe; the ‘fugassa’, a focaccia served with local olive oil; the ‘torta pasqualina’, made with the local vegetables.
For dessert, there are ‘canestrelli’, friable almond-based pastries, and the ‘pandolce’, served on a laurel branch.
A variety of flavours and colours topped by the quality of the wines, both red and white, that only the land of the Lanterna could offer. Those who want to learn about Genoa must experience the flavours of its superb and generous cuisine, which belies the reputation of its people for being penny-pinchers.

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