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Otranto
Salento, the heel of Italy, is nestled in the clear waters of the Adriatic and Ionian coast, where tall cliffs sculpted by the sea alternate with sandy beaches, green stretches of maquis and a small "eden" reachable only by boat.
A journey into the land of Lecce will bring the visitor from prehistoric civilizations, to medieval architecture and to the masterpieces of Baroque architecture of Lecce, from ancient traditions to the skill of master craftsmen.
All this seasoned with intense and genuine flavours, bestowed by this generous land and the loving work of man. Two seas make this part of Puglia a true paradise for those seeking a holiday of sun, relaxation and fun.
The Adriatic coast, with imposing cliffs and lovely bays nestled between the blue sea and green pine forests, offers an unspoiled landscape, in some parts still in the wild, with some areas of great natural interest, such as the Natural Reserve of San Cataldo and the Lakes Alimini.
Beyond the city of Otranto, bays, inlets, cliffs, natural caves draw the coastline, true delight for lovers of scuba diving. In Santa Maria di Leuca, the Adriatic gives way to the Ionian sea that laps the western coast of Salento, with beaches and seabed of fine sand, where the clarity of water evokes images of the Caribbean.
A harmonious landscape, with plains and gentle hills, occupies the heart of the province, rich in villages that testify the presence of man since prehistoric times. Ancient civilizations from overseas have strongly influenced the culture of these places, so much that in the Grecia Salentina (Salentinian Greece) the ancient Griko language is still spoken by the local community.
Plantations of vineyards and olive groves are geometrically shaped and outlined by low dry stonewalls built with the characteristic local stone that is also found here in the typical farmhouses and dolmens and menhirs, remains of the ancient Messapica civilization.
A history book in the open, where the chapter devoted to the Middle Ages is told by the ancient villages and imposing castles; the Renaissance, by the manor houses that, although to a lesser extent, recall the splendour and elegance of the capital.
The gastronomy is as varied as the landscape: oils, wines, cheeses, vegetables and fresh pasta are reminders of the good flavours of the past, achieved thanks to the handcrafted processing of raw materials.
Lying on a plain at the foot of the Salento plateau is Lecce - the Florence of the South - one of the most interesting cities in the region for its architecture, typical of the seventeenth century. Of ancient origins, the city experienced in particular two moments of prosperity: the Roman era and the Kingdom of Naples. At this time, there was a large growth in the construction of buildings, monuments and mansions characterized by a magnificent and rich ornamentation that earned this typical architecture the definition of “Leccese Baroque”. The imaginative and meticulous sculpting work was facilitated by the use of local stone, flexible and easy to inlay.
The visit of Lecce can start from Piazza Duomo, once used as a fortress and today considered the most elegant "salon" in the city. The grandeur of the Duomo, work of Zimbalo, Cino and Penna, the five-storey tall bell tower, the Palazzo Vescovile (Bishop's Palace) and the Palazzo del Seminario (Seminary) mark the perimeter of the square, one of the monumental works that best represents the magnificence of Lecce’s style.
Not far away, Piazza Sant'Oronzo includes in its perimeter the city's history. The Roman period is attested by the ruins of the Amphitheater that becomes the exceptional stage for theatrical performances in summer, and in part by the high Column - on which stands a bronze of the saint depicted in the act of blessing - erected in the seventeenth century using some of the Roman columns positioned on the ancient Appian Way. Symbol of the Renaissance is the Palazzo del Seggio, known as the "Seat", which today hosts important art exhibitions, and the Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie (Church of Saint Mary of the Graces), with its interesting frescoes and wooden works.
Behind the square, the Castle of Charles V, typical defensive construction that counters the austere external design with, inside, the style and sophistication of an elegant architecture.
Imposing and majestic is the Porta Rudiae, crowned with statues of Saint Orontius, Saint Irene and Saint Dominic, with two pairs of columns located on either side of the central arch, behind which stands the Chiesa del Rosario (Church of the Rosary) that strikes the eye with the artistic imagination of its the grand façade.
Not to be missed is a visit to the Basilica di Santa Croce (Basilica of the Holy Cross), where the inspiration of the master "masons" is visible in every part of the monumental façade that anticipates the beauty of the interior, a harmonious balance between the sobriety of the classical style and the splendour of Lecce baroque.
Between San Cataldo and Otranto, the Adriatic coast offers landscapes of extraordinary beauty: white cliffs contrast with the blue of the sea and are interrupted occasionally by a sandy shoreline, the green of the maquis or pools of brackish water separated from the sea by narrow strips of land.
Arriving in Otranto, we recommend a visit to the historic city centre, surrounded by mighty walls and dominated by the Castle built in the 15th century by Ferdinand I of Aragon and the Cathedral with a beautiful mosaic floor (12th century) depicting the history of the period. A dense maze of narrow cobbled alleys and streets is at the heart of Otranto, where the white of the houses is mixed with the colours of the many craft and souvenir shops.
Porto Cesareo, Gallipoli and Torre San Giovanni are some of the "pearls" located on the Ionian coast, with Santa Maria di Leuca to mark the boundary between the two seas of Puglia. Between Otranto and Gallipoli, the strength of winds and sea has carved the limestone cliffs, giving rise to evocative natural caves like Grotta Zinzulusa, full of stalactites and stalagmites, the Grotta Grande del Ciolo and the caves of the Natural Park of Porto Selvaggio.
But the generosity of the lands of Lecce is not limited to the artistic beauties and those of the long coastline. Even inland areas, with their vast landscapes, natural sites and the important prehistoric remains, offer many opportunities that should not be underestimated if one decides to spend their holidays in Salento, one of the spearheads among the Italian tourist destinations.
A land almost completely surrounded by the sea is definitely a favourite destination for lovers of water sports. Sailing, windsurfing and kite surfing have their best environment along the Adriatic coast, where the presence of winds can challenge you to compete in exciting "races" set in a beautiful seascape. The cliffs are, instead, an excellent training ground for those who prefer more extreme activities like rock climbing and free climbing. And if you like exploration, orienteering is right for you: sport, play and fun all in one activity for the whole family.
Trekking amateurs and experts are spoiled for choice between the coastal paths, ancient mule tracks and the numerous caves. If you do not fancy walking, you can choose a mountain bike trip to discover the hidden corners of Salento.
Scuba diving enthusiasts will be delighted by the underwater landscape, with its extensive colourful seagrass meadows of gorgonians and poseidonia, and rich in canals, cavities and crevices to explore.
Santa Cesarea Terme, in addition to being one of the best places to practice diving, is an important spa, known for the curative properties of the sulphur water gushing from the four caves.
Sacred or secular, every year many festivals and celebrations take place in every corner of Salento: opportunities to enjoy fun and folklore and the traditional local cuisine.
Those who want to bring back home some souvenirs can purchase handicrafts from Salento, made with papier mâché, the raw material for dolls and Christmas crib figures; terracotta clay, used for making pots and various traditional fancy goods; wrought iron, mainly used to produce utensils and fireplace tools; Lecce stone, inlaid by the skilful stone cutters with flair and imagination.
Vegetables, oil, bread and pasta, expertly mixed and measured, are the basic ingredients of Lecce gastronomy.
Orecchiette, maccheroncini and tagliatelle are the champions of first courses. Condiments range from simple fresh tomato sauce flavoured with basil and pecorino or cacio ricotta cheese, to turnip greens, tender lamb meat or fresh local fish.
Vegetables are used to make unique delicious dishes like aubergines parmigiana and "taieddhra", a triumph of flavours made with potatoes, courgettes, onions, and mussels seasoned with grated cheese.
Pizza and focaccia are another characteristic element of the cuisine of Salento. Enriched with vegetables and seasoned with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, they are a real treat. And do not forget the frise, toasted bread softened in water and seasoned with juicy tomatoes from Apulia, rocket and olive oil, a meal that peasants in the past would eat quickly during the short break for lunch.
Among the main courses, rolls of tripe and lamb entrails cooked in broth or roasted on the grill, lamb with potatoes and, of course, recipes based on fish roasted or fried, in soup or baked. Urchins, mussels and oysters eaten "raw" are for those who love the strong taste of the sea.
Among the desserts, you can choose between pasticciotto filled with custard cream, Lecce cotognata, dried figs and taralli. Also try the mostaccioli, coated with chocolate and made with grape juice and jam.
Aleatico, Squinzano, Cupertino, Galatina, Leverano Matino, Nardo and Salento are the wines of Salento.
Do not forget the oil produced here under the label Terra d'Otranto DOP.
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