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Le Murge - Alberobello, Truli at "Aia Piccola"
Capital of Apulia and important tourist destination and commercial harbour, Bari lies on a fertile coastal plain facing the Adriatic sea.
The landscape of the Murge plateau, where time seems to stand still, stretches further inland. Timeless panoramas show a bare landscape whose sameness is broken up by rocks, hollows and ravines. Wide open spaces have been adapted to man’s needs over the centuries, using dried-up river beds as farmland. Olive and almond trees and vineyards give colour at intervals to the vast expanse of the plateau, where are located ancient masserie (farmhouses) often fortified as a means of defence against raids.
As a result of the karst phenomena, a unique landscape has been sculpted by water and the passing of time.
In the province of Bari lies the Itria Valley, one of the most symbolic sites in the region, land of the famous trulli houses which stand out, with their grey conical roofs, from the geometric field pattern that characterizes the entire valley. Rocky strips of land alternate with long sweeps of white sand, with the crystal clear waters of the sea adding the finishing touches to the beauty of the landscape.
The stretch of coastline of the province extends from Molfetta, north of Bari, to Monopoli further south. Along this itinerary, nature’s charm merges with the picturesque villages and the precious heritage of imposing castles and marvellous cathedrals. Further evidence of this can be found in the hinterland, scattered with charming locations, like chapters of a history book.
Celebrations and festivals, genuine flavours and tasty wines are the heart of ancient but never forgotten traditions, which the people of this land preserve with respect and love.
A tour of the imposing castles and cathedrals that dominate many ancient villages is an opportunity to explore also the wonderful nature of the province.
Bari, cultural crossroads since ancient times, is an ideal starting point. A city where two souls meet: the old town, surrounded by an imposing wall and crossed with narrow streets that lead to the discovery of its rich heritage, and the modern city, built at the beginning of the 19th century and gone through changes over time.
Along the perimeter of the old walls, one comes across the majestic Castle commissioned by Frederick II of Swabia, with a spacious inner courtyard, where today gatherings and events take place. A wonderful example of Apulian Romanesque architecture is the imposing Basilica di San Nicola (Saint Nicholas Basilica), where the holy relics of the famous saint are kept.
The sober and bright façade, flanked by two towers of different shape and height, has three portals that give access to the interior naves, where important works of art are kept. The second most important church in Bari is the Cathedral, flanked by a tall bell tower and built on layers of previous ancient buildings. A finely decorated rose window and three portals give movement to the main façade. The interplay of volume and space, and the light seeping through the large openings and reflected off the stonewalls, create an evocative atmosphere inside the church. The new town, whose project was planned by Gioacchino Murat, is criss-crossed with shopping streets like Corso Cavour, where the famous Teatro Petruzzelli (Petruzzelli Theatre) is located, considered the temple of opera in Bari.
The southern part of the province borders on a strip of the gorgeous Itria Valley, known as the land of the trulli. Alberobello, home of these characteristic conical buildings symbol of Puglia, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In the surroundings, Locorotondo, whitewashed village on a rocky spur overlooking the marvellous scenery of the valley, during springtime turns into an explosion of colours and scents. A patchwork of vineyards, olive groves, woods and fields outlined by whitewashed dry stone walls, whose uniformity is broken by small conglomerations of trulli.
Today the trulli, in strict respect for the ancient tradition, are equipped with all modern comforts and represent an original alternative to classic hotel rooms to spend one’s holidays. The old part of the town in Locorotondo deserves a visit: surrounded by its town wall, it is criss-crossed by narrow alleys among quaint whitewashed houses enlivened by colourful floral displays adorning the balconies.
The journey continues with a visit to Conversano, a small town that has been able to protect its historical and cultural identity without renouncing the advantages of modern times. An imposing Castle overlooks the city, with four large towers located by the angles of the trapezoidal plan, in the direction of the cardinal points. Built as a defence structure, the Aragonese turned it into a manor house with external and internal building works aiming at softening its lines and shapes. The Galleria Municipale (Municipal Gallery) housed in the premises interesting artwork displays. There are also numerous religious buildings, such as the Cathedral, in Apulian Romanesque style.
Also interesting is the architecture of the old town centre of Putignano, known for the famous carnival, and Castellana Grotte, known for the evocative underground caves.
On the coastal strip, there is the old village of Polignano, located on a sheer cliff overlooking the sea with numerous natural grottoes and caves, and also Monopoli, one of the best coastlines in the province, scattered with ancient farmhouses, villas and the remains of ancient civilizations.
To the north of Bari is located Ruvo di Puglia with one of the most renowned Cathedrals in the region, famous for the peculiar architectural lines, the result of a series of harmonious alterations and restorations. A visit to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale Jatta (Jatta National Archaeological Museum) is a must with its exhibition of a precious ancient collection of ceramics and paintings. In the Murgia of the shepherds, where the landscape leaves the warm colours of the maquis and takes on the dark tones of a bare terrain, there is Altamura, known mainly for a bread that has been awarded its own appellation status DOP. The town can be spotted on a spur overlooking the plateau, with the Cathedral towers standing out against the sky, as though to attract the visitor’s attention. Commissioned by Frederick II of Swabia, the church has undergone important transformations, such as the construction of two towers to the sides of the façade, instead of bell towers which traditionally complete the structure of religious buildings.
Finally yet importantly, an interesting stop on the journey is Gravina di Puglia, a land of natural galleries, caves and ravines dug by an underground river and in the past used as shelters by man.
The slow action of an ancient river created the largest Karst formation in Italy, the Grotte di Castellana (Castellana Grottoes), located in the heart of the Murge. Amazing stalactites and stalagmites, scattered along galleries and large caves, give shape to a fascinating and mysterious scenery, provided with an evocative play between light and shade. Two itineraries are available to explore all cavities of this natural masterpiece with which it is almost impossible not to be impressed.
One can chose trekking or riding a mountain bike to explore the beautiful landscape of the Parco Nazionale dell’Alta Murgia (National Park of High Murgia), cut by deep ravines and gorges, with interesting specimens of fauna and flora. A land of intense tastes and fragrances deserves a dedicated trip to rediscover old time flavours produced following ancient traditions handed down from generation to generation. A delicious opportunity to satisfy the most exigent tastes and discover the natural and artistic beauty of ancient villages such as Locorotondo, Ruvo di Puglia, Bitetto, Alberobello, Altamura and Conversano, just to mention a few.
Small inlets, long coastlines and cliffs lapped by crystal clear waters offer several ways of enjoying the wonderful sea. Surfing, windsurfing, kite surfing, sailing, scuba-diving, snorkelling or seawatching - are the many activities to participate in and have fun above and under water. After a day of sun and sea, having an aperitif sitting in one of the many bars will start the night off.
Among celebrations and local festivals, the Festa Patronale di San Nicola (Festival of San Nicola) in Bari is not to be missed, with its solemn historical and religious processions attended by hundreds of participants, as well as the Carnevale di Putignano (Putignano Carnival), a parade of masks and allegorical floats, accompanied with sounds and music. Also very evocative is the night parade of Shrove Tuesday, when lights and colours stand out against the darkness of the night.
The cuisine is based on important ichthyic resources and a strong bond with the produce and ancient traditions of this land.
Pasta, in its most original shapes, is made with simple ingredients such as water, flour and salt and is the king of main courses. Handcrafted orecchiette, cavatelli and fricelli have the right shape and consistency to absorb the tasty seasonings based on vegetables, fish or meat.
The skills of the bakers are found in the preparation of pizza, focaccia, spicy taralli and the famous Altamura bread, protected by the appellation DOP and excellent just as a side dish, delicious when seasoned with extra virgin olive oil Terra di Bari DOP and garnished with the famous Apulian vegetables and greens.
Among the fruits of the earth there are the Barattiere, small vegetables to eat raw in salads, table grapes, sweet and juicy, and sweet Termite olives from Bitetto, seasoned with salt, vinegar, olive oil, spices and natural herbs. Aleatico, Gioia del Colle, Gravina and Locorotondo add the quality of excellent DOC wines to the flavours of the local traditional cuisine.
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